BBC Travel

Vivienne Kruger was born in Manhattan in the very heart of the Big Apple. A social and cultural historian, Vivienne earned a BA in history and then a PhD in American History from Columbia University in New York. She first visited Bali on a week-long overland trip from Jakarta in 1993. For five years, starting in 1999, she wrote travel articles for Bali & Beyond magazine. In 2006, with her column “Food of the Gods”, Vivienne officially launched her career as a food writer for the Bali Advertiser. Vivienne has been shuttling between Darwin and Kuta, Ubud and Lovina for most of the past 13 years. Considered a leading authority on the culinary arts of Bali, Vivienne’s book Balinese Food: The Traditional Cuisine and Food Culture of Bali was published by Tuttle in April 2014.

What inspired you to get into food writing?
I started out writing articles about a prominent Balinese restaurateur, Ni Wayan Murni, the owner of Murni’s Warung in Ubud. While researching her fabulous restaurant and the foods on her menu, my interests took an unexpected turn into traditional Balinese cooking—and I just kept going!

What’s so special about Balinese Food?
Balinese food is singular among the leading cuisines of the world. Dedicated to the gods and fuelled by an array of fresh spices, it’s inextricably bound to the island’s Bali-Hindu religion, culture and community life. The Balinese cook with love, art, reverence and exactitude. My book bears witness to Bali’s time-honoured, authentic village cuisine as well as its spectacular ceremonial feasts when food is carved, etched and painted into the rich spiritual shapes and divine colours of holy temples and imposing royal palaces. Curious strangers can only gape in awe, respect and admiration as they struggle to learn how to make these intricate food offerings.

“Balinese Food” Book Cover

What differentiates your book from other books about Balinese food?
My book is the first to explore the secrets of Bali’s virtually unknown cuisine and culinary-religious mindset. It’s also written from the perspective and world-view of the Balinese, offering insights into the cultural and religious underpinnings of the foods of Bali. The product of extensive, PhD-level, first-hand field research, my book is a storehouse of hard-to-obtain factual information on (and explanations of) Balinese cuisine that is unavailable anywhere else.

Did you test all the recipes?
I tested most of the recipes by being present in the kitchen as local people cooked. The recipes were demonstrated to me in either small warung kitchens or in private kampung homes. I watched the often complicated and laborious traditional preparation process, wrote down all of the recipe steps, ingredients and amounts, and then ate the always fragrant and delicious dishes afterwards!

Which recipes are the easiest and the most difficult to prepare at home?
Easiest: sambal matah, bubur kacang hijau, kolak biu, tempe manis, nasi goreng, rujak, pisang goreng.
Hardest: lawar, bali guling, bebek betutu, tape, jaja lapis, tum ayam.

What are the most indispensable ingredients in Balinese food?
The Balinese will not eat anything without hot, spicy sambal (sauce) as an accompaniment. The bumbu (spice paste) is another integral ingredient at the cooking stage, giving Balinese food its characteristic heat. A third central ingredient is the weighty cylindrical chunk of brown palm sugar (gula merah). It stars in many dishes like kolak biu, appears in most sweets (jaja) and is the basis of super-sweet village drinks like daluman.

Is Balinese food healthy?
The basic ingredients used for daily home cooking in the villages are low in calories, saturated fat and cholesterol. Refrigeration is rare in these household compounds, so food is purchased daily, always market-fresh and in season. Heavy fatty foods like pork are a luxury item only eaten in conjunction with major religious ceremonies. Because the Balinese diet is characteristically rice-based and leaf-heavy, obesity and obesity-related diseases are rare. Though the Balinese have a very robust sweet tooth, even their sweets are light and small and made of rice and palm sugar. However, unhealthy components in Balinese cooking have crept in with the widespread use of grated coconut in many dishes, a reliance on coconut oil to fry almost everything and a madcap love affair with salt liberally sprinkled throughout the food chain.

Balinese Food

Is Balinese cooking in any danger of being assimilated into Indonesian cooking and thus lost?
Infrastructure has exploded in the tourist areas and modern technology has made a deep impact on Balinese society, but otherwise little else has changed since ethnologist Miguel Covarrubias observed Balinese culinary habits in the 1930s. The Balinese like Indonesian nasi goreng and bakso meatballs, but they far prefer to cook and eat traditional Balinese lawar, sate, tipat, and babi guling over anything else. When I took a friend to Bubba Gump Shrimp restaurant in Tuban, she was intent on ordering some hot local sambal sauce from the waitress to spice up the American popcorn shrimp!

Why don’t foreign visitors have a greater appreciation of Balinese cuisine?
Balinese food is ultra-spicy. The level of chilli-driven heat in almost every dish far exceeds the normal, western food comfort zone. As the Balinese say, “No spicy, no good!” Even fruit-based rujak packs a tremendous load of local chillies and spices. Many foreigners are not only afraid of the spice levels, but also the amazing and unusual appearance of the dishes. People are shy about trying novelties like fern tips or menacingly spiky durian, not to mention banana tree trunk soup or pork lawar made with raw pig blood. Balinese food is also very hard to find on the island of Bali if you’re a visitor. Most restaurant and hotel food is either Indonesian or ethnic (Chinese, Thai).

What do you like about being a food writer?
The quest for information and perfection and the inherent satisfaction in solving cultural food riddles. Like stumbling across a valuable, buried, underground treasure of truffles, I relished the relentless hunt for a particular food dish or recipe and the sheer adventure of tracking down renegade leaves, obscure food tree species and other rare ingredients for which even the Balinese did not know their colloquial or botanical names!

What is the best way to contact you?
By email: jimbaran1@yahoo.com.

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There is something so delightfully charming about the warung. It’s a celebration of culture, where traditional foods meet a relaxing, unpretentious ambience that reflects the lives of people in the neighbourhood.

I can feel the vibrant radiance of intimacy every time I sit in a warung. Friendly waitresses rapidly move, bringing trays of food to customers; loud laughs and the rattle of cutleries, enthusiastic conversations between diners over humble gastronomic artworks seem like a dynamic song that livens up this ordinary life.

“The great thing about the warung is watching the people, and experiencing a day-to-day life passing in front of you,” says Max Lommers, a Dutch expat who currently lives in Indonesia.

One thing that is quite amazing is the social aspect that adds to the flavours. “It’s more about the environment that makes you feel comfortable, a part of the culture where people usually eat out. They still need to have some locations for social interaction, like a pub in the UK for example,” continues Max.

A humble portion of Javanese food at Warung Nikmat – Kuta

Warung Nikmat, one of the favourites in Bali, is a good example to see the description of how life works on this island, which is filled with tourists, expats and locals. My friend Tari Morlanes loves it here. She regularly eats at Warung Nikmat once a week for more than five years. To her, lunch is merriment in this warung which is located in Kuta, the centre of the tourist destination; it’s a perfect meeting point to meet her friends, and a good place to introduce humble Javanese cuisine to her tourist friends.

Another example of a simple and friendly eatery is Warung Kampoeng, my friend Maya Nursari’s favourite place to eat, where she also gets her food delivered from. This warung presents a mix of cultural influences from Javanese, Chinese, and Western cuisines in a romantic rustic atmosphere. Office workers stop by after hours to relax with colleagues over ayam kungpaw, mie goreng or es teler, families share tables for extensive Chinese cooking, while couples enjoy eating simple home foods such as rawon or stir-fried water spinach.

“The foods remind me of my mother’s cooking, like cap cay and nasi goreng. The Chinese flavour is so distinct with thick soup and sauce. It’s really a nice blend,” Maya tells me.

Warung is a lifesaver for me, a single and hard-working young woman. Let’s admit it, it is an amazing concept you can’t find in many places around the world. Delicious fresh foods are available at an affordable price, and ready in just a short period of time. Just drive to your nearest warung, and in less than 15 minutes you can have your meal and still keep your hands clean.

A plateful of Nasi Ayam Bu Oki in Jimbaran

Nasi Ayam Ibu Oki is one place I visit regularly. The warung (although it’s actually a house turned into a place to eat) combines delicious Balinese chicken and rice that is so rich in spice and chilli. The pleasure of getting a plateful of rice with chicken cooked in seven ways, served with crunchy fried peanuts and steamed vegetables, and mixed with coconut shreds, is something I always miss when I am away from Bali. When I touch down on the island after being away, I make sure to go here first. It’s almost like a statement for me saying, “I’m glad I’m back in Bali!”

For Geoff Drake, a reservation manager in a hotel, warung gives a different cultural experience which he doesn’t see in his home country. He is quite impressed with how warung present their food to the customers. “It gives a better sense of comfort to know the foods before getting what I want. I like to pick and choose, and especially like the ones where all the dishes are already made,” he said. “And I like to eat too. When I eat I like to be fulfilled at the end, and at the warung, you can manage your portions; if you want to eat more you ask for more, and if you want to eat less, just ask for less.”

Simplicity is another factor people like from a warung. According to Juliana Tu, formerly a worker in a private hospital in Bali, warung has a unique down-to-earth character when it comes to foods but with better tastes and cheaper prices. “Restaurants kind of complicate the food and put too much stuff on it, but if you go to a warung, they’re really simple and straightforward,” says Juliana.

Her favourite is Warung Jawa located on Jalan Danau Poso. She praises it for the continuity and providing foods for customers 24/7. “They have a big selection [of foods] and you can just pick what you want. They always have stuff, they never really run out, and if they run out then they already have a new tray to replace.”

Alison Bone, a writer, thinks that the atmosphere and characteristic is the most important thing from a warung. It should have a story about the culture it’s presenting and a strong concept about foods. “I like to go to a warung that celebrates Balinese rituals,” says Alison. “I like the traditional aspect of warung, like Warung Kayun up in Mas. It has a Balinese village setting and a relationship between food and the gods, so foods as an offering.”

Countless quaint warungs in colourful portable stalls or permanent/semi-permanent buildings can be found in every corner of this island, serving delicious foods from all over Indonesia. But although I’m quite adventurous when it comes to eating, there is nothing compared to comfort foods. And something about the warung that everyone must remember is to look at the locals. If locals go there, you know it’s a good place to go.

Warung Nikmat
Jalan Bakung Sari, Gg. Biduri No. 6, Kuta, Badung

Warung Kampoeng
Jalan By Pass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran, Badung

Warung Kayun
Jalan Raya Mas no. 47, Ubud, Gianyar

Nasi Ayam Bu Oki
Jalan Uluwatu 2, Jimbaran, Badung

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Rut Dini – photo by David Metcalf

Dini is a passionate defender of the rivers of Borneo, which is not surprising, as her memories of growing up in a small village on the Kahayan River in Central Kalimantan are very happy ones. She remembers with fondness, days out fishing with her father in his small canoe on the pristine rivers with dense forested areas coming down to the riverbank, not far from what is now the bustling city of Palangkaraya.

Dini explained to me, “We often used to see orangutans in the trees and were very wary of them as they were staunch defenders of their territory, but we managed to respect each other and back then there was plenty of pristine forest for the people of my village and the wild primates of the forest to share.”

Dini was born in 1988 in a small village in Muara Teweh district and both her parents are Dayaks; her father is Dayak Ma’anyan and mother is from the Dayak Lamandau tribe. Dini now lives in Palangkaraya but misses those days in the village surrounded by family, community and the daily traditional activities and ways of the Dayak people of the area.

Her parents sacrificed everything to ensure Dini had a good education and her mother instilled in Dini a good attitude to learning. She always had a desire to work on humanitarian and environmental issues but ended up going to university to earn a degree in agriculture science. During this time she taught herself English by learning 70 words a day and interacting with foreigners as much as she could to become competent in the language.

After graduating with her agricultural science degree in 2013, she started working for a local NGO called Yayasan Tambuhak Sinta, concentrating on the issue of mercury pollution in the area of artisanal and small-scale gold mining in Central Kalimantan and West Nusa Tenggara. She is working on providing the alternative technologies and increasing public awareness to eliminate and/or to reduce the usage of mercury as a source of environmental pollution. Mercury is highly polluting and damaging to human health through bioaccumulation in the food chain.

Rut Dini is very passionate about saving the rivers and forests of her homeland. “I can’t believe how quickly the rivers have become polluted and the forests have disappeared in the area in which I grew up. Back then there were no palm oil plantations and the rivers were clean and there were many species of fish. Now the rivers are polluted from the run-off of pesticides and chemical fertilisers from palm oil plantations. Also, mercury poisoning is going to be a big problem in the future. It is so important that young Dayak people become educated and join in the fight to save our forests and rivers or our children will inherit a wasteland. But we cannot do this alone, we need help from the outside and a collaboration of expertise is required. I have learnt there are many alternatives to these destructive methods and I am determined to devote my life to this cause.”

This strong-minded 25-year-old plans to earn a scholarship, travel to Australia and gain a Master of Environment degree to help her in her quest to work with NGOs and local governments to provide viable solutions to the current destructive practises. I have no doubt she will be successful, as this softly spoken young Dayak woman presents a steely determination and will to succeed and the rivers of Central Kalimantan have an ally.

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This is the time of year when many of us are travelling on leave and staying in hotels. I have just returned from three weeks in Europe with my family, and it occurred to me after a conversation with my kids that when I stay in hotels I take into account things that most people don’t even think about. So, instead of my usual nonsense, I would like for this issue to share with you some simple fire safety measures that you might like to think about when you choose and use hotels, things that might just help you to return to Jakarta safe and sound for the next issue of Indonesia Expat in August. See you then!

“Check it out before you check in.” Before you book a hotel, search the Internet for information and guest comments. Look at photographs to judge the standard of housekeeping. Check the hotel’s website for information on safety and security standards. You can probably judge this book by its cover.

“Low floor near the door.” Ask for a room on the lowest floor possible, as close to the lift lobby as possible. This will give you a choice of the fire exit near the lift or the fire exit at the end of the corridor if you need to leave.

“Know your way out.” Make a mental note of where the nearest fire exits are and check if the window is an optional escape route. Count the number of room doors between your room and the exits and note which side they are so you have a choice of ways out even if you can’t see. For example, remember “right four left” if you turn right for the exit and it is four doors down on the left, or “left two right” if you turn left for the exit and it is two doors down on the right. Close your eyes and make a mental image of the routes in your mind. Try to use the stairs to reach the lobby at least once so you are familiar with that route if the lifts are disabled.

“If in doubt, get out.” If you hear, smell or see anything unusual, get out via the nearest fire exit if safe to do so and alert hotel staff to your concerns.

“Look before you leap.” Check there is no fire in the corridor outside your room or outside the window before you try to exit that way.

“Raise the alarm.” Let hotel staff and the authorities know as soon as possible that you believe there is a dangerous situation by whatever means possible – don’t be shy and don’t assume somebody else has done it.

“Poise and noise.” If it is not safe to leave your room, remain calm and make sure everybody knows you are there. Use your mobile phone to call for help and to call as many people as possible to make sure you are not left stranded. Shout out of the window, put the lights on if they are working and flash them to attract attention.

“Mind the gaps.” If there is smoke in the corridor, block the gaps under and around your door with wet towels. Open the window if safe to do so to allow fresh air into the room.

“Fight back.” Fill the bath with water to use for fire fighting if the flames get too close. Cover your nose and mouth with a wet towel to filter and cool the air as much as possible.

“Stay low and go!” If you are forced to leave your room when there are signs of fire outside, stay as close as possible to the floor where you will find the cleanest air, keep your nose and mouth covered with a wet towel and head towards your safest memorised exit as quickly as possible. Do not take belongings with you – they will only slow you down.

Safe travels!

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Forced urban dwellers like myself long to escape the confines, concrete and cars. I’m always on the lookout for a quick trip that offers a breath of fresh air, and, if I’m lucky,­­ a view, too. Sixty kilometres south of Jakarta’s city limits are a couple of easy getaways. Take the toll road to Bogor, and you can make a great escape into the country, where sensational scenery and cool climes await. It’s an oasis of unpredictable weather with 322 storms a year, so plan accordingly. Good accommodation is available for a weekend getaway, but weekdays are ideal for avoiding traffic.

Puncak means ‘peak’, and at 265 metres, Puncak Pass has stood as the most popular mountain destination outside of Jakarta since Dutch colonial days. We began our crisp morning with coffee and proffertjes or donuts at Puncak Pass Resort. Built around 1928, the historic hotel has a commanding view and makes an ideal base or, at least, a place to gird one’s strength with sweets and caffeine.

The hike starts nearby, approaching Gunung Mas Tea Estate from the rear. This is a downward trek, skirting tea fields, where workers wear enormous pastel cane hats to guard against the sun and rain. Some workers clipped with knives held in heavily gloved hands, collecting tea leaves in an attached plastic bin. When filled, this was dumped into larger sacks. Other workers handled a hedge trimmer-like machine that cut leaves from the bushes and sucked them into a hefty sack. The ladies giggled and waved at us, as they hauled these burgeoning bags to central collection points.­­­­

Scarlet-leafed cinnamon trees border many fields, growing tall and trim. Gingers also sprout along the trail like fiery, spiked sculptures. Plodding through the terraced estate, a view of eternity emerged, beckoning for a breather and water break. Even estate workers stopped and stood on this precipice, enchanted by the sloping foothills, fading into the misty distance.

Parasails often lift off from a peak-side perch nearby, lending a bird’s eye view of this emerald expanse and seeming, to hikers, like enormous birds themselves. The parasails whirled and twirled, floated, and then, glided to the landing base, where the tandem teams touched down.

At the trail’s end, stop into an outdoor cafe for a cuppa. Perkebunan Teh Gunung Mas or Golden Mountain Tea Plantation produces B grade product, chiefly for export. The cafés offer two dozen types of tea—from blackcurrant to green to lemon—but only a couple of food choices. As we finished our hike, the plit plat of rain came, and it felt good to wrap chilly fingers around a warm cup. This hillside-hugging hike logged in at eight, easy-going kilometres. Not a hiker? Guests are invited to walk among the tea terraces or a guided tour is available for a small fee.

Another good escape is Sentul Hills, at the toll road’s marked exit. This trek averts the dizzying weekend slow-gos of the narrow town road beyond. There are many walks through th­­­­­e undulating landscape, and local guides, like our escort Encep or Id Guides, allow trekkers to simply take in the terrain. Paths network the land, crossing creeks, which sparkle and splash over slippery stones. Bamboo bridges provide a bouncy way over rushing water. Up and down you go, so watch for slick spots on rock-paved grades in wet weather.

The trails wander from kampung to kampung, nipping around farm plots of banana, clove, lemongrass, coffee and vegetables, and then, pop up next to houses. Our arrival in these spare, timeless villages felt intimate, as people quietly chatted on door stoops. As we passed, some children cheerfully called out, while younger ones hid behind their mothers’ skirts. Goats chewed their cuds in raised corrals, rice dried on mats, men wielded knives to peel cassava, and chickens scooted where they would, crossing the road for no reason whatsoever.

Jungle tracks burst out onto open spaces with verdant views across rice paddies. Bending over, people plugged nursery plants into the mud or beat stalks to knock the grain free. Streams gurgled or bamboo irrigation pipes trickled to saturate the stepped fields. The scenes are timeless.

Make a weekend of hiking the hills. A host of possible accommodation, from hotels to bungalows with hot springs in Sentul, are available. Sir Stamford Raffles described Bogor as “a romantic little village”, and though the city has grown, its charms remain. When the need to breathe deep takes hold, the simple effort of walking releases tension, like a fiddlehead fern, leisurely uncoiling its frond. You are at ease and one with the landscape.

Martine Casagrande, 360° Life Prosperity Coach, who has hiked there for years, said it best, “I feel the lack of rushing and absence of individual responsibility and stress. I feel the essence, emanating from the forest and people, still moving to the beat of a seemingly forgotten drum. I not only take in the stunning scenery, but also the relaxed and humble nature of humanity there. For that short while, I too am part of nature and the people that belong there.”

For guides: Encep 0811 850 4319 and Idguides.net

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Sulawesi: twice the size of the UK, volcanoes galore, uninhabited islands, strange creatures, boiling seas, electric clams and tons of bioluminescence, all wrapped up in Mother Nature’s blanket of beauty and sustainability.

In January, we planned a dive vacation to Halmahera, but the Gamalama volcanic eruption nixed that in late December. The only positive aspect to the detailed planning and flight expenditures was learning how to spell words like ‘Halmahera, Ternate, Gamalama’ and why we shouldn’t cancel Garuda flights less than 72 hours prior to departure! Once the ash settled and the Ternate airport re-opened, our chartered dive boat was long gone to North Sulawesi, with no return option.

Fate seems to have a way of working out problems here in Indonesia – our flights on Garuda Airlines went without a hitch, with all eight of us arriving to Manado from both Jakarta and Bali by mid-morning. From here, it was an hour’s drive east towards our liveaboard dive boat parked in Lembeh harbour. By 2.30pm we were steaming out in anticipation of our first dive.

This adventure took us approximately 100 kilometres north of Manado to many volcanic islands. We were fortunate to experience two spectacular night dives, one off the south shore of Bangka Island and the other within Lembeh Strait itself. On these dives I focused on capturing the miraculous marine bioluminescence common to these waters.

Most people have experienced luminescence of microscopic phytoplankton but what I am discussing is the actual light output from higher marine organisms such as corals, anemone and small critters when subjected to (or excited by) a spectrum of blue light. There have been a number of research articles written on this subject, but no one yet understands the real background purpose of animals exhibiting bioluminescence. Postulation focuses on defence mechanism (to confuse predators), reproduction (to attract a mate) or to attract prey. Communication may be a primary purpose for the deep sea creatures.

Bioluminescence is the world’s most efficient method of light production. Most of the light emitted is green, blue or reddish in colour. These are the wavelength colours which best penetrate sea water. Some of these organisms don’t actually fluoresce themselves but result from symbiotic hosts such as luminescent bacteria and/or algae (as in the case of coral). Researchers have studied marine luminescence since the early 1900s.

Method to View and Photograph Marine Bioluminescence

First of all, please keep in mind that bioluminescence is not phosphorescence. Phosphorescence is a release of light from oxidizing crystals which are activated by light or radiation, while bioluminescence is a complex chemical response which releases light when excited. Bioluminescence is highly evolved in the marine world but normally goes unnoticed, as the light emitted cannot compete with sunlight or a strong underwater torch.

The equipment you need to scan for luminescent subjects is a dive light with either a UV option or with a blue filter placed over the lens. A better alternative is to apply a blue gel filter over your dive light and look through a yellow filter placed either over your mask or in a small frame. The yellow filter cancels the blue light but allows the luminescence to shine through. What you see using this method are only the luminescing subjects, while everything else will be completely dark.

I use an i-Torch Pro-6 with the UV light option while diving to scan for subjects. The ultraviolet spectrum is not the best wavelength to ‘excite’, but it works fairly well as a screening tool. Fortunately, the UV lights up the surrounding area, making for a more comfortable night dive. Either method you use, try and divorce yourself slightly from the rest of your dive group (with their 2,000 lumen dive lights) in order to view these subtleties. Just enjoy the calm because you are basically swimming around in the dark except for these glowing creatures.

To photograph subjects, you will need to attach a blue filter assembly over your flash or strobe and a yellow filter over the lens of the camera. You can make this or if you are lazy, like me, just purchase a NIGHTSEA Fluorescence Excitation Filter which screws into the front of the strobe. This commercially available filter screens out all light except that of the 510 nanometre wavelength. You will also need a yellow filter on the camera lens.

Once a critter or coral shows up as ‘popping’, come in close to compose the picture. It is best to have your dive buddy hold the UV or blue-filtered dive light on the subject to get a good focus. I use the focusing light on my fancy strobe for this. It is best to use a fairly high ISO camera setting (800-1,500), as the blue filter absorbs much of the light from the strobe. I use a 60mm macro lens for this purpose. Shoot manual if your camera allows. Experiment a little and take multiple bracket shots to get the best exposure. Have fun!

Rule number one is not to lose your dive buddy (wife) as you diddle around. No matter how great your picture is, it’s not worth it. Instead, dive together and have her take the shot!

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FAST FACTS: Sitaro Islands Regency

Province: North Sulawesi Province

Land size: 275.96 km²

Population: 63,543 (2010)

How to get there: Daily flights from Jakarta to Manado with Garuda Airlines and Lion Air.

Where to stay: Liveaboards and land accommodation available in Lembeh Strait. Just search online.

What to do: Diving, snorkelling, beach combing, volcano climbing and sightseeing.

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Nusa Tenggara Barat (NTB) is one of Indonesia’s 34 provinces. Wedged between Bali and the tiny island of Komodo, it is trying to carve itself a spot on the tourist map of Indonesia. Bali, to its west, is, of course, the leading and best-known tourist destination, so much so that abroad the island is quite often believed to be a separate country. Komodo Island – which is part of Nusa Tenggara Timur Province – to its east, is a strong draw for those interested in seeing the world’s largest ‘dragon’. 

In spite of official government efforts to promote NTB as a tourist destination, the province remains overshadowed by its westerly neighbour even though the beaches are marvellous white-sand dreams and the forested interior offers a range of attractions for eco-tourists and those who like roughing it.

The main tourist centres are Senggigi, with starred-hotels and resorts on the west coast, and the Three Gilis, three small islands, to the north of there, frequented largely by backpackers.

The second island of the province, Sumbawa, has probably even more to offer in terms of secluded white-sand beaches, nature and natural scenery. The main drawback, however, is the quite trying process of getting there. The main town on the island is Bima which in most tourist guides typically gets a less than favourable press. Most visitors, the guides say, will depart at the first opportunity for the surf beach at Dompu, or on to Labuan Bajo and the Komodo National Park. The scarcity of tourist facilities is another reason that the island is not visited much by non-surfing tourists, which is rather unfortunate as parts of the island are very beautiful.

The most striking feature of the island is Mount Tambora. Slightly over 200 years ago, on 10 April 1815, this volcano erupted in what was the largest volcanic explosion in recorded history. The blast altered the global climate for years afterwards and directly caused the death of over 70,000 people. Hundreds of thousands more perished in the aftermath due to disease and famine.

The debris produced by the eruption measured some 175 cubic kilometres, or enough to cover Jakarta in 280 metres of ash and volcanic rock particles. The ash plume rose to 33 kilometres, reaching well into the stratosphere, and winds quickly moved the ash around the globe, causing vibrant sunsets.

The explosions were heard as far away as Sumatra. The memoir of Sir Stamford Raffles, who was then on Java, contains this excerpt:

The first explosions were heard on this Island in the evening of 5 April, they were noticed in every quarter, and continued at intervals until the following day. The noise was, in the first instance, almost universally attributed to distant cannon; so much so, that a detachment of troops were marched from Djocjocarta, in the belief that a neighbouring post was being attacked, and along the coast boats were in two instances dispatched in quest of a supposed ship in distress.

The ash plume also caused global cooling which led to crop failures and widespread famine. In Europe, for instance, 1816 became known as the “year without summer”.

Mount Rinjani on Lombok, at 3,726 metres – the second highest volcano in Indonesia – is the equivalent of Tambora. A massive eruption in the middle of the 13th century is believed to have triggered global cooling, failed harvests and famine, too. Its caldera contains a crater lake at 2,000 metres above sea level. The mountain and lake are considered sacred by both the Sasak, the original inhabitants of Lombok, and the Balinese Hindus on Lombok.

The presence of a fairly large group of Balinese Hindus started in the early 17th century and by 1750 the Balinese had taken control of the whole island. Internal rivalry resulted, however, in the island being split into four Balinese kingdoms, and in 1838 the Mataram kingdom finally took overall control. Relations between the Balinese and the local Sasak were, however, rather strained, especially in the eastern part of the island. And during one of the many peasant rebellions, the Sasak asked the Dutch on Bali for help. The Dutch Governor General reacted to this request in 1894 by sending an army to Lombok and after heavy fighting, and the near destruction of Mataram, the Dutch took control of the whole island in 1895.

According to the Encyclopaedie van Nederlandsch-Indië of 1917, the Dutch are remembered as the “liberators” of Lombok, but that, of course, is a fairly biased statement.

The Sasak are the largest ethnic group on Lombok and the majority adheres to Islam, but two version of Islam are professed—Waktu Lima and Wetu Telu. The former, Waktu Lima (five times), refers to the five daily prayers Muslims are required to perform. Wetu Telu (three symbols) in the Sasak language is also based on the Muslim religion, and according to its adherents they were the first to be converted to Islam by the Wali Songo (nine holy preachers) who came from Java in the 17th century. They set foot on the island in the village of Bayan and built the first mosque there.

Wetu Telu is essentially a simplified version of Islam combined with ancestor worship and a strong belief in spirits. Interpretation of what the three symbols represent varies widely. To some it is ancestors, god and human life; to others it might mean birth, life and death; sun, moon and stars; or sky, earth and water. Wetu Telu Muslims pray three times a day, and the Ramadhan fasting month is reduced to nine days of fasting only. They moreover enthusiastically hunt and consume wild pigs, washed down with the strong rice wine they brew.

Nowadays very few Sasak will openly confess that they are Wetu Telu Muslims, as religious intolerance has been increasing. During the past decade, there have been regular outbreaks of violence towards Ahmadi Muslims, followers of the Ahmadiyya sect. Under the banner of: Destroy the Ahmadis who bring shame to Islam…, they were evicted from their villages and saw their houses being destroyed. They ended up in poorly equipped temporary shelters where they found it nearly impossible to survive on the support provided by the Government’s social service system. The only way to get out of the shelters appears to be to convert to the conventional version of Islam. No wonder the Wetu Telu Muslims nowadays will proclaim that they are “modern” Waktu Lima Muslims.

But deep in the forests on Mount Rinjani some shrines have remained. Ceremonies are held there on certain nights to ensure that the spirits are appeased and no harm will come to the villages. And the villagers could tell you of trekkers turned to stone because they did not honour the spirits and were discourteous to nature. But that is another story to which trekkers should maybe pay attention.

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Land size: Lombok 4,700 km2; Sumbawa 15,400 km2

Highest elevation: Mt. Rinjani 3,726 metres

Population 2013: Lombok 3,257,200; Sumbawa 1,373,100

Where to stay in Sumbawa for surfing and white sand beaches:
Amangati Hotel
JL. Raya Hu’u Nangadoro Lakey
Huu, Dompu, Nusa Tenggara Barat 84271
0821-4618-7583
amangatihotel.com

Airlines flying to Lombok from Jakarta: Garuda, Lion/Wings Air, Batik Air

Airlines flying to Bima from Jakarta: Garuda, Lion/Wings Air

What to bring: swimsuit, hiking shoes, umbrella, sun hat, sun cream

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Aceh is a beautiful place to explore and a trip to the Gayo highlands of Central Aceh will delight you with pine-studded mountainsides, remote village life and a beautiful little town called Takengon nestled beside a lake.

Lake Tawar | Photo by David Metcalf

I made my way to Lake Tawar just outside of Takengon and met a delightful man, Pak Syamsudin, who told me about his ancestral home. “I am fifth generation and a descendant of Raja Beluntara, the original king of this district. This old house is over 150 years old,” he told me in a pensive tone. “The government did a deal with me a few years ago. They wanted my historic home and offered to move me to a nice, new modern house down the road for free if I would give them this original house, so I said why not?”

As I sat with him, I gazed up at the tall wooden beams, which were held together with five pegs and five posts. “The Dutch were here for a long time,” he said. “They built schools and gave us education. Take a look at this painting of Raja Beluntara. The painting was actually made from a photo found in a museum in Amsterdam.” Pak Syamsudin stood proudly next to the painting with his son and three grandchildren joining him for a photo opportunity.

Pak Syamsudin is the keeper of the old house. He receives government funding every three months for upkeep. He told me, “No one from the government ever comes to visit. The house sits empty but I’m fine with that.” His look was one of reflection as he stared up at the vertical panels; a design feature of a King’s home. “But I do miss living here,” he added.

He told me about the good relationship his village had with the Dutch. He went on to explain that in the early 19^th century, the Dutch made an agreement to honour the kingdom. Part of the deal was to provide education for the local people, which even to this day they have maintained. Many Gayo people are poets and love to compete in verbal challenges, which are held regularly in the form of competitions in the villages and neighbouring towns.

I was lucky to witness one of these word-slinging poetry competitions late one night. It was a poetry recital and part of a celebration of a local boy’s circumcision ceremony. I was told the boy’s family were wealthy, so as part of the ceremony there was to be a didong; a poetry competition.  

A word-game challenge that continues through the night, a didong involves two rival villages and only finishes when the sun comes up. They tell jokes and challenge each other mentally, and this is reinforced by loud applause when questions are answered correctly, and even louder cheers when the answer involves a clever response.

I arrived at 10pm and left at midnight. I was told the didong would go without a break until 2am. From 2am to 6am, the verbal challenge would move to a new level and involve dancing combined with teasing and taunting. Now and again, a village elder would have to come to the rescue with an answer if the contestant was unsure. Through this rescue technique, both audience and participants engage in a deeper understanding of their history and culture. The elders, who are the judges, declare the winner based on two factors: knowledge and wisdom.

The dance of a thousand hands

I was lucky enough to be invited to a Saman dance rehearsal one night in a tiny back lane in Blangkejren Village. I met Ali Muddin, a Saman dance teacher whose dance troop had toured the world and attended festivals in Kuala Lumpur, Melbourne, Berlin, Sydney and Thailand.

I was directed to sit on a beautiful hand-woven green and white Gayo mat, as a line of thirteen very keen teenage boys shuffled into the tiny two-room house. The Saman dancers sat in a long row, excited to practice their age-old dance in front of a foreign guest. It was just a normal Monday night practice, but the room was packed family members. The boys practice three times a week and must synchronize their movements at a very fast pace, not missing a beat.

The dance was absolutely mesmerizing from beginning to end. It involves slapping the body and shuffling the head from side to side, as the dance gathered momentum. Matching the pace of the music, the dancers moved their bodies in quick succession, co-ordinating hands, arms, necks and upper bodies in time to the music while singing. The dance reached a dramatic ending, where everyone burst into applause.

The origins of this dance come from the Gayo ethnic group. It is only performed in this part of Aceh. Ali told me that once a father has taught his son the dance, he no longer performs. “They all want to learn to dance,” Ali said, “because the Saman dance is one of the most popular dances in Indonesia. Many of the boys are lured by the opportunity to travel to Jakarta and other places, and maybe like me, go overseas.”  Ali continued, “Every year a big dance competition is held in Jakarta. We keep winning the competition, and now they have banned us from competing. Can you believe it?”

Traditional Dance Performance | Photo by David Metcalf

Many grand festival events are held in the Gayo region. You can check with the tourism department and time your visit to coincide with one of these. On occasion, up to 5,000 dancers can perform the Saman dance.

I went to Aceh with a desire to travel from Banda Aceh in the North to Gunung Leuser National Park in the South. I spent one week traversing the countryside, much of it cloaked in coffee plantations, wide river systems, stunning scenery and touching encounters with the local culture.

From sitting in an old king’s house to discovering the Saman dance tradition in the small village of Blangkejren, Aceh was a trip of discovery, every day revealing a new wonder. Travelling to lesser-known places in Indonesia with just a rough plan and an open mind will always bring a trail of surprises and delight.

Fast Facts: Aceh Gayo

Province: Aceh

Area: 58,376 km²

Population: 4.732 million (2014)

How to get there: Banda Aceh to Takengon, the central highland area of Aceh, is 314km. It’s a slow and bumpy
ride. The roads are in average to poor condition and the journey takes 6.5 hours.

Tour guide and driver: Miss Ferzya www.getaceh.com

Accommodation: Linda’s Homestay –  lindahomestay@yahoo.com

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Few visitors travel beyond the popular neighbouring islands of Lombok and Bali, but voyage a little eastwards and Sumbawa Island offers a peaceful escape from developed tourism areas. Lesser-known West Sumbawa reveals hidden coves, deserted beaches, and remote traditional villages with people living close to the land. Traditional villages perched high in the mountains provide perfect vantage points for soaking in dramatic sunsets and the stunning coastline. Sumbawa is a sprawling island with vast tracks of jagged peninsulas, volcanic mountains and idyllic, powdery white beaches, perfect for swimming. 

The spectacular view of Gunung Tambora in North Sumbawa

Culture

Sumbawa is like two islands, divided by geography and language: Sumbawa in the West (Samawa ethnic group) and Bima (Mbojo ethnic group) to the East. The island has historical links with the Makassarese people of South Sulawesi and the Chinese who traded in these waters for hundreds of years.

Around 85 percent of Sumbawa’s terrain is mountainous. The plains yield prosperous crops and excellent returns to farmers who have long enjoyed the benefits of the fertile volcanic soil, enriched by the dramatic eruption of Mount Tambora in 1815. The Guinness Book of World Records describes this event as “the biggest volcanic eruption in modern history”. The top third of the mountain was blown off and over 150 cubic kilometres of rock and ash was showered across the valley.

Mount Tambora, North Sumbawa

Tambora belongs to two regencies; Bima and Dompu. The best way to get there is flying to Bima airport, and then driving to Pancasila village or Calabai village in the Dompu Regency. You then overnight in Calabai or Pancasila village, and begin your trekking to Mount Tambora. There are three route options. It is necessary to plan all aspects of the trek in advance, and allow two days and one night from Pancasila or Calabai village.

The walk is for experienced climbers only and has its challenges. You must be physically fit and prepared for some discomfort and dangers. You will slash your way through virgin forest as the trail is not well worn, and, in fact, in 2009 only three groups climbed the mountain. Since records have been kept (2004), only 50 people per year have made the trek to the summit. The most powerful volcanic explosion of all time reduced the height of the mountain from 4,200 metres to 2,800 metres, and the sound of the explosion reached as far as Jakarta. This is a climbing adventure for the brave at heart.

Jelenga Beach (Scar Reef)

Surfers from all around the world come here to surf the infamous left-hander, which can be surfed on any tide. Travelling around Sumbawa can be a bit on the fly, as many smaller hotels do not have reliable phone or internet connection. Travelling with a guide who has reliable contacts and local knowledge makes independent travel a whole lot easier.

We found a lovely little villa right on Jelenga Beach (located about 1.5 hours from Poto Tano). Scar Reef Beachfront Hotel has a gorgeous tropical garden that spills out onto a serene white sandy beach. The rooms are spacious and well appointed.

There was not another soul on the beach when we arrived, and this did not change for three days. I instantly found a hammock strung across a beach bale and settled in for a few days of swimming in the pristine warm waters. The only other people staying were surfers, who went out very early each morning, and were not seen again till late in the afternoon. The peace and quiet was just heavenly.

Jelenga Township is internet challenged, so one must be inventive if requiring communication with the outside world. This involved jumping on the back of one of the staff’s motorbikes after dinner and heading up to a nearby hill to get 3G reception, where even the local doctor was chatting to his girlfriend on the phone. You know you are far from tourism when you have experiences like this.

West Sumbawa’s Beaches

Sekongkang Beach is the most well-known surf spot, and nearby, Yoyo surf break attracts surfers from Australia to Hawaii. These beaches are located on the south-western part of West Sumbawa Regency and are a 35-minute drive from the nearest point of Maluk, or 1.5 hours from Taliwang.

For non-surfers, be sure to check out Maluk, a lovely beach located an hour’s drive from Taliwang. It has the purest white sand and calm waters. Do not be surprised if you are the only one here. Exploring this West Sumbawa coastline is definitely worth a couple of days.

There are many examples of smaller low-key resort style accommodation and low-impact tourism. Rantung Beach Hotel has 12 guest rooms with ensuites. The beachfront cafe serves fresh Indonesian and Western cuisine. With a fresh juice or icy cold beer in hand, this is the perfect place to watch the sunset. Guided spearfishing and snorkelling are offered here and a great way to finish the day is to throw your catch of the day on the barbeque and watch the stars appear above you. Room rates here start at only US$15 a night.

Moyo Island 

Moyo Island is located in the north of Sumbawa. The travel distance from Sumbawa Harbour is approximately 1.5 hours (by wooden boat) or 40 minutes by speedboat, or you can fly there from Bali. A stunning, mountainous island, Moyo is covered mostly by protected forests. The dense forest is home to a plethora of wildlife including deer, wild boar, wild cattle, monkeys, and various types of birds.

The island of Moyo claims to have some of the most beautiful waterfalls in Indonesia, made famous by a visit from the late Lady Diana.

Insider

I met a local, Pak Hadi Zamzuri Al Mahsyat, from the Tourism and Creativity Economy Department of West Sumbawa Regency, who gave me some local insight into this region. “I love Totang Rasa Restaurant. An excellent choice for lunch or dinner,” he said when asked about his favourite place to eat. “Another favourite is Tanamira Restaurant, and if you like sweets and snacks call into Amat Loka in the afternoon for a traditional snack called Palopo.”

Pak Hadi explained there is no museum or gallery, and what draws most people to Taliwang are the buffalo and the local horse races. Held once every two weeks except for during Ramadan, people love to gather and enjoy these races. The races are held in different districts, and this organization looks after the scheduling. “Just check with me at the Tourism office and I can find out for you, or your local guide can advise.”

Local horse races attract visitors to Taliwang, Sumbawa

Fast Facts: West Sumbawa, Indonesia

Contacts:

Sumbawa Tour Guide and Driver – Pak Takwa

Email: takwasajidin@yahoo.com

Phone: +62 812 384 39828

West Sumbawa Regency Tourism – Pak Hadi

www.disparekraf.sumbawabaratkab.go.id

Email: agabergaz@yahoo.com

How to Get There:

By Boat: Public ferry from Lombok to Sumbawa departs daily from Labuan Kayangan (East Lombok) to Poto Tano (West Sumbawa). Travel time is two hours.

Places of Interest

Poto Tano: The harbour port town for ferries to and from Lombok.

Seran Village: Located 10km from Poto Tano, this is the location of a 1,000-year-old cemetery.

Mantar Village: Accessible by 4Wd – 1 hour from Poto Tano.

Mantar Paragliding with Pak Effendy Haris. Email: effendy_haris@yahoo.com or call: 081331728311

Jelenga Beach

Scar Reef Hotel: Snorkelling facilities, fishing, hiking and surfing. www.scarreefhotel.com

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